1 - 24 of 48 ads for "dynabolts" within Building MaterialsAnyone use these before? I need something removeable, so thinking of using these instead of dynabolts. Just wondering if they work loose or any other problems bolhs be aware of? I've used them dyna bolts bunnings heap of times for fixing signage frames to masonry walls. Some have been in for dyna bolts bunnings and no problems as yet. Just be careful not to over tighten them.
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Anyone use these before? I need something removeable, so thinking of using these instead of dynabolts. Just wondering if they work loose or any other problems to be aware of? I've used them a heap of times for fixing signage frames to masonry walls.
Some have been in for years and no problems as yet. Just be careful not to over tighten them. As they have a really course thread you can strip the hole surprisingly easily. Select to expand quote Harrow said Select to expand quote mitchbat said Thanks Cauncy, Just got my scanner working this morning, so here's a diagram of what I want to do. On the right hand side, my driveway is level with the bottom of the pool.
The 3m high posts will be supporting 1. Potentially there will be kids leaning on the fence when they play in the pool, and regular wind loading of course.
So there will be repetitive pulling force, and that's what concerned me about them possibly working loose. The pool and drive are 40 years old. Anything better that I should use now that you know what I'm doing?
There will be two fastened to the pool for each post, just can't show that in the side view. Should work fine, Only drama would be the condition of concrete, Also what's the thickness of the ring beam on the pool , and the distance between fixings on the cleats to the pool. Pool ring beam is mm thick, and cleat holes on each side of the post are mm apart.
Actually, I had been thinking of these see pic below , which I guess are the same as the Mungo that you mentioned? Just wasn't sure if they had the required pulling force?
I've used them to hold quite a long swinging gate attached to house brick and I can stand on the gate without the bolt budging, so maybe they are okay. Actually if they are suitable, they'd be my preference, as they don't rely so much on the concrete being in good condition, and can be removed and replaced without damaging the drilled hole. What do you think, the nylon frame anchors would do the job? I'm a builder by trade. For screw anchors used in concrete I always use lead ones, they will mold into the concrete as you screw in the screw, plastic or nylon ones have a way of pulling out.
The one you show works good for mostly interior walls, sheetrock wallboard or plaster. I agree with most of above. Except in high vibration situations machinery fixed down to concrete slabs for example , ankascrews can work themselves loose.
Pool areas are known to degrade metals significantly, so best to invest in the right product. Maybe also look at chemset as they are the preferred 'structural' fixing method to concrete in most applications. Many pools are constructed using fibre reinforcement as opposed to steel, and can also be constructed using aerated concrete for reduced weight - some masonry fixings simply won't bond to them.
If it needs to be removable and able to be reinstated. A " loxin " is the go , old school but should be still available. I wouldn't be happy fixing an expansion type anchor 80mm from the edge of a slab, and definitely not from the edge of a pool ring beam that has all kinds of live loads on it. I'm not sure why you want it removable?
But I would be going for a chemset anchor of some sort in that application. Unless you don't mind if even just one of the anchors blows the top edge off the pool. Select to expand quote kk said Select to expand quote Harrow said.. How long is the lever arm? My opinion is the concrete screws you propose are inadequate. I would use an epoxy system. In my experience those screws sometimes do not work at all because of the hole being drilled slightly too big, concrete not correct or often the heads of the screws twist right off when screwing them in.
I use them for attaching toilet flanges to the slab, brackets to hang pipes from, etc The force applied in your case is pulling the screw straight out of the hole, for this I feel these are inadequate.
For sheer strength these screws work best. Rather than find fault in your idea - a suggestion maybe? Would you consider fixing a timber plate say just 90 to x45 to the underside of the concrete ring beam and fix to that? A bracket could be fitted to the column that bolts to both the edge of the timber and the underside, eliminating sheer forces It's an inexpensive way to avoid future damage, and it's how I'd approach the issue if I owned a pool.
The whole fence is already manufactured and sitting in my yard ready to install, so I can't change the fundamental design. Just need to make up my mind about the bolts. The fence is 1. Below the pool is 1. I didn't think I'd have a problem with blow out, since the concrete is over 6 inches thick, and those anchor screws are recommended for near edge fixing.
But now enough of you have mentioned it to have me thinking about that too now. Seems the one thing everyone agrees on is an epoxy set system. Guess I can do that with a stainless stud so I don't need to worry about it rusting? I'd do 10mm studs with what, a 13mm or 14mm hole in the cleat for expansion? It may be mm thick, but even though you're not planning on using an expanding fixing - you're talking about a bolt inserted in the middle of an edge beam - so halve the thickness Most concrete pools that I've seen are typically constructed using low MPa concrete.
Your proposed fixing method doesn't allow for any movement at all, so will no doubt end in engineering failure of one or more of the components bolt, concrete, post. Adapting a bracket to an already-made fence so that it suits the application correctly is a very minimal cost against repairing a broken pool edge. Might be worth mentioning that my new aluminium fence is replacing a timber one of the exact same dimensions, but a lot heavier , that has been in place for the last 30 years and was installed in the exact same manner to the edge of the pool with dynabolts, except they are all rusted and I can't get them out, or even undo them.
Thus why I was looking at something that can be removed, and thus easily replaced every, say, 10 years. I would chemset some stainless steel studs in, something like 10mm studs in a 12mm hole and drill a 14mm hole in the cleat on the post, or if you can go for the timber plate that sailhack suggested, it's a really good idea. Even in that case I would use chemsets to hold the ring beam on, avoid the capsules of epoxy though, they are expensive and hard to drill into. Most of my experience is with tilt panels and though at times I have to fix to the edge of a panel it's not fun with anything bar mm fixings nylocks The self threading anchors do put outwards pressure on the hole when installing, this will be your enemy.
I will never use dynabolts again. I had an aluminium pool fence posts made with flat flange plates on the base so as I could fix it to the existing concrete. I had to put little packers under the flanges to ensure the post was vertically level.
I Ankerscrewed 4 holes per flange. Some of these screws went in and out of the hole half a doz times, Pulled back down tight every time. Bought a couple of each, and went around the blind side of the house to test on the side of a suspended slab. Found out a couple of things. Those Ankascrews aren't going to come out, if you can ever get them in!!!
I could only get a few threads in by hand before I felt I was going to break either my socket or my arm, now I understand the reference to rattle guns. Maybe I needed a slightly larger masonry bit, not that it should be very worn, it's only used for DIY around the house?
The nylon frame anchor isn't going to come out anytime soon either, and is a lot easier to put in. Even with only 30mm of a mm bolt installed I couldn't lever it out the slightest amount. I'm going ahead with the nylon frame anchor. Or just drive it with a socket and adaptor to your drill a real V one.
That is the advantage to nylon inserts, a coach screw with a dab of soap and drive it with the drill, piece of cake compared to driving Ankascrews by hand. Finished almost - one panel to go. Well here it is. I made some drawings and took them to a local engineering workshop to have made up. It's all in aluminium. Posts are 75mm sq x 3mm thick. Flanges and cleats 10mm thick. All fastened with mm stainless steel coach screws set into ramplugs with nylon washers so there's no stainless steel hardware touching the aluminium fencing.