6 Step Process For Hardening And Sealing Wooden Lure BodiesWant to know how to treat your wooden lure bodies before propionate lure sealer them? Look, wood is without doubt the best material for lure making. Unfortunately, water logging is prlpionate number one killer of fishing lure action — not to mention the primary cause of early paint level low cost argentina. Plus, soft, easy carving wood tends to dent and puncture propionate lure sealer, reducing performance, service life and appearance. But clear coats are just the last line of defense. Even the best wood for lure making needs to be treated before you paint and fish with lurr lures. Which one you choose is largely personal preference.
Washed Ashore Fishing - Custom Wood Fishing Lures
Welcome to Tackle Underground. TU is the world's largest community of lure makers! We hope you'll join us. Or sign in with one of these services. Started by gliders , May 5, Sorry if going over old ground, I currently seal with epoxy, however I would like to try propionate sealer, problem is I cant source prop granules in scotland, tried eurolures many times no reply.
I imagine cups, packing materials etc. Are made from various plastics so would produce various results, any good time proven advice much appreciated. I think TU reports about results with plastic substitutes for propionate have been very uneven. Cracking when dried, inability to get it dissolved, etc. So that's a crap shoot and there are several undercoating alternatives that have proven less troublesome. I first bought prop from Swede, a TU member who unfortunately passed away a few years ago, then from a TU member in South Carolina whose name I dis-remember.
Apparently there can be several versions of propionate and I think the one used by lure builders is cellulose propionate.
A Google search shows quite a few sources, although it may be hard to source clear pellets. Nowadays, I use either epoxy or UV cured polyester resin for undercoating. I tried the latter Solarez for topcoating but didn't like it; however it works fine for undercoating and is a fast and easy alternative to multiple 5- dips in propionate dissolved in acetone.
Brush it on, rotate it for a couple of minutes while it levels out, then expose it to sunlight for minutes and you're ready to go. I know "sunlight" might be a problem in Scotland but mine has cured just as well on cloudy days because there is always UV from the sun penetrating to Earth regardless of the weather.
The cure process is not temperature sensitive. BobP - probably Palmetto Balsa. He sent me a few bags, but he hasn't been around for a couple of years now. Cheers replies guys, have been using slightly thinned e-tex for a while now and good results, drying time a pain though. Might look into polyester , sounds interesting. But bit of a pain due to time scale prior to weighting. I used the plastic cups years ago..
Cheers nathan, looks like cups etc. The plus for me with epoxy is it is another hard barrier layer ,but always looking for any better options. I've never used propionate, but I do remember a thread quite some time ago that told what symbol to look for on the bottom of the plastic cups. There's a certain recycling symbol, or lettering, that indicates what type of plastic it is so it can be sorted correctly.
Hopefully someone will remember the thread I'm talking about and can post the info. I occasionally still use prop still got a little in the garage on a few balsa bass baits and it seems to hold up OK.
The catch is you need a very thin solution of prop to dip baits otherwise you get drips and sheets , so it requires at least 5 and as many as 10 dips, with some drying time between dips to build up a coating that is optimal, then allowing the coating to dry further overnight to become really hard. So to me, prop seems sort of "old school" and there are other products that are just as good and faster to use.
I use Devcon Two Ton epoxy, which cures faster than Etex. And as noted above, UV cured polyester is very quick to use and provides protection that is as good. Thanks reply bobp, have tried most options in past and keep coming back to epoxy, might give the solarez a try though, have used similar for flies in past and d2t for same. How do you find its self levelling properties v etex? The lures that I make have to withstand Bawal, which is a piranha type fish with literally bone crushing jaws.
I was only testing to see if the lures caught fish. I never even added a top coat or paint. The fish loved them but the prop seal coat had no chance, one fish would rip it to shreds.
It was a good test for the tiny lures though, as they held together against 6Lb piranha. Prop is a very convenient seal coat.
Yes, ten dips is a good plan, for a good seal and a smooth surface. You can dip a dozen lures while the kettle is on, so it is no big deal time wise. The top coat has to be quality, especially for fish with teeth, but this is true no matter what the seal coat is, if you want to preserve your paint job.
Next time I build lures for these piranha, it will be a thinned epoxy to seal and a thick epoxy top coat for protection, still no plans to start painting though. Cheers dave, I use 4to5 coats etex topcoats as it is for pike , so dont like sound of ten dips to achieve what I get with 1 of thinned epoxy.
Not sure about which you are asking, but - D2T levels out as well as any slow cure epoxy, that is to say excellently. The UV cure polyester from Solarez I brush on and then put it on my lure turner to level out for minutes before curing it. It is a fairly thick product with a viscosity slightly less than freshly mixed D2T.
One coat is plenty thick for a bass bait and probably for a musky bait too, just IMO. Cheers guys might give solarez a try , unfortunately it works out just over dollars a quart here. Cheers bobp , thats the price from shops in u. Years ago I use to use sanding sealer with o.
Going have a look at make up of some to see if any are basically dissolved plastic, any thoughts appreciated. Hello again bob, just found solarez sanding resin at 30 quid a litre, is this what you are using? Can it be thinned? I think crankbait builders use Solarez Gloss Resin, designed for a topcoat on surf boards. There are a lot of different Solarez varieties for different uses but most of us have only used that one, so I can't comment on their sanding resin.
Someone here on TU asked the company about thinning Solarez and got the info from them but I don't remember what the thinner was - you might find it with a search of the posts. I like an "undercoating" on a bait, i. Many "sanding sealers" are neither tough nor very waterproof - they just prevent wood grain from rising.
I like a slow cure 30 minute glue epoxy. Devcon Two Ton is an example but there are many other brands that would fill the bill. A UV cured resin has similar physical qualities when cured and is super fast. Here in the States, it's much cheaper than epoxy or many other candidate products. UV cured resins are used in lots of processes, like making printed paper glossy, etc.
It's a relatively new product for us bait builders so there's not much depth of knowledge about it. Thanks bobp, good food for thought. I sent some of that to a guy who put it through his machine and gave me the chemical compounds it's made of, and all the currently available commercial chemical names for it. There is a company in Somerset NJ who makes the stuff. I do not remember the name but google cellulose propionate you should find it.
Cheers salty,s but seems harder to get hold of in u. So just in case someone is searching for this I pulled out the spectrometer printout.
The sample I sent in has a You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. Already have an account? Guest Message Welcome to Tackle Underground. Sign Up Existing user? Or sign in with one of these services Sign in with Facebook. Posted May 5, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites. Gliders, I used the plastic cups years ago.. Posted May 6, Posted May 6, edited. Edited May 6, by BobP.
Ten coats does sound like a lot of work, but believe me, with a bit of organization, it is not. For pike and musky, stick with what Bob is telling you. Posted May 7, I would think there's a supplier of UV cured polyester somewhere closer to you than California. Posted May 7, edited. Edited May 7, by BobP. Posted May 10, Posted May 11, Posted May 12, Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up for a new account in our community.
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